Upvote:3
sources only; I'm not qualified to answer, but I asked my professional historian/costumer for advice.
Arab Dress a Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times (THEMES IN ISLAMIC STUDIES)
Costume Society of America; they won't have the answer, but can point to additional resources.
FWIW, we still haven't found a clear, useful term for communities of unconventional costumes. Stande sounds good, but sounds class oriented, and might ignore ethnic and gender communities.