If you’re willing to look a bit further afield, Chiang Dao Nest, a little over an hour north of Chiang Mai, does rather good elephant-free treks. Their site also mentions some treks with elephant rides, but they have plenty of other options as well.
Their guides are all local hill tribe people and all in all their setup is pretty good, they’ll pick you up from Chiang Mai in the morning or the night before and the Nest is a really nice place to stay.
Here’s some photographic evidence from my own (elephantless) trek with them back in 2005.
Goodness, you’re not kidding, it’s hard to find.
I can offer the following:
Barking Gecko Tours: 2 Day 1 Night Trek and 3 Day 2 Night Trek, both which certainly don’t MENTION elephants, despite having a picture of one on their banners. They are officially licensed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT).
Credit:stackoverflow.com‘
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